The old ballast has two wires coming and going from Pin 2 of lamp 1 and pin 2 of lamp 2 go to the other yellow wire. 5 Where as, blue needs one pin thus all blue to a single blue and repeat with red to the other side. In your case you for sure made the right call. You get home and BOOM the thang has more wires than your old one. The electronic replacements ive been able to find have 2 blue and 1 red lead. Additionally, removing the ballast will reduce energy usage and result in even great cost-savings as ballasts continue to draw more power than necessary. It will have similar wiring going from the ballast to the 2 tube holders, as well as "extra" wires coming from the switch itself. The old ballast had 2 red, 2 blues and usual hot, neut and gnd. It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. There were some fluorescent fixtures in my father's gas station that were over 40 years old and still working!! LED replacement tubes: "Direct Wire" types require you to bypass/remove the ballast, and wire 120V supply power directly to the lampholders. A new fixture would likely be only about $10 more than the replacement ballast. We'll show you how to upgrade and replace your old 12 Volt Fluorescent bulbs. I like a lot of light so lumens and color temperature are a big thing for me and LED has helped with that, since now I can get a brighter bulb with less consumption. Thanks in advance for any help on how to wire correctly. The other two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 2 and 3. The ballast has a hot and neutral wire at one end to receive power, and two blue wires a red one at the other end to supply power to the lights. The new ballast (which is a 2 bulb T8, compatible with F25 bulbs) has 2 red, 2 blue and 2 yellows that I didn't have before. Which I tied together the corresponding colors with no issues. This photo compares a pair of old and new ballasts. I purchased a GE proline ballast replacement for a two lamp flourescent fixture, 48" each lamp. T8 ballasts are designed to … The need to replace the original fluorescent ballast with a new LED driver requires more labor than plug-and-play solutions, which work with the existing fluorescent ballast. The fixture I show had an old ballast that used T12 tubes, while the new ballast only works for the T8 size. Because ballasts can last for 30 years or more, there are still some PCB-containing ballasts in older buildings. If you are replacing a T8 ballast, the wiring of the old ballast should be the same as that on the new ballast. Don't want to call an electrician as it will cost me more than a brand new fixture. I just installed this new ballast. This broken ballast has four blue wires, two red wires, and one yellow (plus the white and black not shown). Oh me too believe me, everything other than those two T8 fixtures have been changed to LED around my property. Snip the old fluorescent ballast wiring several inches from the end of the fluorescent ballast with side-cutting pliers or wire snips. But then, what to do with the extra red and blue of that same left-hand trio? The new one has black/white and 2 blues and one red. Without a ballast, a lamp or a bulb will rapidly increase its current draw and it can become uncontrollable as well. If you’re are new to the technology and are interested in using it to replace old incandescent bulbs or fluorescent lamps, you can use LED lights in your already existing fixtures. 4. They are also much less prone to problems. You will need T8 lamps too. I believe most residential wiring codes require the use of solid core insulated wire. Cut the Old Ballast Wiring. 2. what do I do with them. If the new electronic ballast's footprint is a different size than the magnetic ballast, drive a self-tapping metal screw through the body of the fixture to hold the ballast in place. With yel on one side, so they go to the single side. Because they have advantages over more traditional solutions, new ballast designs may be the better choice for some jobs. Novak cautions that on very old fixtures--those that are more than 20 or 30 years old--you may have a tough time finding a replacement ballast. The other I just did, and it is working perfectly also. The new, replacement ballast (Philips RELB-2S40-N) is below. Standard fluorescent lighting fixtures are more energy-efficient than incandescent light fixtures, and the bulbs generally last considerably longer, but occasionally a special transformer inside the fixture, called a ballast, may need replacing., may need replacing. Hi I have a old ballast with 6 wires, the new ballast has only 5 wires 1RED, 1Blk, 1Wht, at one end, on the other end 2blue. Can you give the model number of the ballast you purchased? The old style ballast and its wire could have dated from the 1950's. If we had used Electrician it would have their charge per hour plus materials. We're talking old 8-foot flourescent fixture. In my opinion the improvements over the electronic ballast really make digital ballast design more of an incremental step as opposed to a completely different genre. this allowed having only 1 bulb in the fixture to reduce the brightness. The new ballast (which is a 2 bulb T8, compatible with F25 bulbs) has 2 red, 2 blue and 2 yellows that I didn't have before. They are inexpensive and will give 10 to 20 years of service. That was probably one combination I didn't try. You should have just bought a whole new fixture. Read more. LED Lighting has really boomed in the RV Industry. Turn the power back on. On newer fixtures or those that have been updated, the ballasts are electronic and are more energy-efficient and quieter than older-style magnetic ballasts. They have some specific advantages over magnetic ballasts. On the 4 lamp parallel ballast diagram below, each individual wire is connected to a pair of individual wires … Efficiency is really what it’s all about. A couple of distinctions with what I am dealing with: 1) there is no green wire coming out of the left of the ballast: just one black and one white. I have indeed connected the two blue on the right side of the ballast with the two blue on the right side of the lamp as well as the two red with the two red. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. I am replacing an old ballast with a new one and have wires left over. Interesting article, thanks. The schematic isn't making sense to me and I have tried many different combinations of these wires, which succeeds to power only a single bulb at a time. 1 to the socket of each bulb and then you have to install a jumper between the two sockets. Having an indoor garden can significantly spike your electric bill, so you really want to save pennies every chance you get. Your old cap may not work on the new What is the red wire on a ballast? The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. The yellows are going to go to the opposite side, they're going to tie into that red. The new ballast has only two yellow wires. New Ballast in my kitchen light $20.00 VS. a whole new light fixture $120.00....SAVED us $100 PLUS+. The new one is electronic. The new motor has several ways to connect common. Do not try to duplicate the wiring I initially bundled the extra left-hand red with the four red on the right-hand side, and the same with the extra blue, but this did not work. More below. After all of this I understand ballast wiring much better now. 5. Play around with the lamps. I hooked it up like the other poster said, red with yellows, one blue with reds and one blue with the 2 blues. Some LED tubes want 120V on the opposite ends of the tube. The old ballast had 2 red, 2 blues and usual hot, neut and gnd. My diagram has two red, two blue and two yellow. Cheaper ballasts are likely to need more rewiring than a fitting that has a branded ballast in it. The black connects to a red power wire in the ceiling, the white to the whtie neutral, and the single red, blue and yellow wires all connected to matching wires on the fixture to the left. Do not panic. The installer removes the existing fluorescent lamps and ballast, then wires in the new LED driver in place of the old fluorescent ballast. Sure: GE-240-RS-MV-N-DIVFixture uses two 4 ft, 34 watt, T12 bulbs. One was replaced over a year ago and is working perfectly. Switch them. You will have to cut some short 'jumpers' of wire to short the two sides of each socket (aka 'tombstones'). Again, this process assumes that you have the right tools and parts (an exact ballast replacement and wire connectors), that you can safely reach the ballast you're replacing, and that you're comfortable doing this kind of work. If your fixture is old enough to have a "starter" you will follow the wiring digram in the new ballast and probably not use that. Aluminum wiring has been studied since about 1945, and began appearing in homes in North American as early as 1965. If needed, cut off excess length from the new wires ahead of time, but make sure they'll still easily reach and connect with the old wires. It’s worth spending a bit more in order to save yourself money and effort in the future. If you have the chops to change a ballast, you can handle this. Here we will be wiring the new ballast to the old and some new tombstones. The incurred cost will preponderate over the preliminary financial savings by changeover to the ballast-compatible LED lamps for a large number of fixtures throughout a building. Thanks for any help you may be able to give. The HVAC shop should sell you a new capacitor. Instead, a reactance is used. https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-the-Ballast-in-a-Fluorescent-Lighting-Fixture This broken ballast has four blue wires, two red wires, and one yellow (plus the white and black not shown). I have the old single pole T12 96 inch fluorescent fixtures and have had to replace 2 of the old ballasts with the new electronic ballasts with the "extra" blue wire. Notice how both the red and blue wires go to one lamp. Before wiring to the ballast all of the 8 tombstones get a jumper wire to connect one side to the other so you could do that a head of time or as you go. A ballast is an electronic device that regulates the current required to illuminate a fluorescent tube. The advancements made with new ballast technologies save you money, push more light and maximize your yields in the long run. I'll do all I can to help. The schematic shows red, yel, blue. The fixture wires include 2 blue wires coming out one side and a single red on the opposing side. 2) from the left side, there is one red, one blue and one yellow wire that are not reflected in the diagram below. I am installing a New T8 Single tube ballast to replace an older ballast. My old ballast was wired as pic 1 with 3 wires to the 3 connectors the new ballast has 6 connectors I wired old 1 to new 21 old 2 to 23 old 5 to 25 but no joy - do i have to loop 21-22 23-24 25-26 i know the tubes work and the plug Differently than new electronic replacement ballasts, the existing ballasts have 1 blue lead and 1 red lead, and obviously a line and neutral. The old ballast has two wires coming and going from . You do not need I am trying to replace an instant start ballast with a programmed start ballast, since it's a frequently switched fixture, and I'm tired of burning bulbs every two months. But T8 is not "the latest..." But T8 is not "the latest..." Going to T5 as a bulb/ballast replacement is harder, since the tube lengths and pins don't match up, but weird converter/extended devices are made. So, I've got two less blue wires, and an additional yellow. The solution is as follows: First, turn off the power supply to the fixture. Looks like you're using new Reddit on an old browser. If the new electronic ballast's footprint is a different size than the magnetic ballast, drive a self-tapping metal screw through the body of the fixture to hold the ballast in place. Use orange wire connector for more than four 18 AWG wire connections. 3000 (halogen), 3500, 4100 (normal fluorescent), 5100, or 6500 (cloudy day). The two blues and reds on the right connected to matching fixture wires on the right. Take photos, make a drawing - do not fail to record this information as it makes wiring a new ballast far easier. Cut the colored wires to the old ballast 1 to the socket of each bulb and then First start by of course turning off the power and disconnecting the black and white wires from your in coming power feed to the old fixture you could reinstall wire nuts on black and white power feed wires as to be able to turn power back on to the rest of the lights on that circuit or leave it off if your the forget full type and might not remember its on when you go to Install the new ballast. Old Ballast was 1 red - 1 blue - 1 black and 1. The wires from the new ballast are trimmed of excess length. Ballasts that don't contain PCBs have the words "No PCBs" printed on them. Since removed the timer from the circuit, hoping to rebuild the light without the built in timer. For reference, the ballast will likely have a wiring diagram printed right on the ballast itself. The new ballast and lampholder wire ends are stripped. Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - 3 bulb florescent lighting new ballast install with more wires than old ballast - Ok heres my problem. It's important to use the proper gauge of wire. Two individual wires of the same color (blue or red) connect to each of the individual pairs on lamps 1 and 4. I replaced a 20-year-old ballast that died last week. The new ballast wires are connected to Contractor's Assistant: I'll do all I can to help. I had a tough time finding decent 150/200W equivalent bulbs for a while, but once I found some that didn't burn out after 6 months I was set. That's where you only have holes to insert wire on one side of the socket. The old ballast had 4 yellow wires allowing a completed circuit for each bulb. my lights are the single pin florescent type. 18AWG or 18-gauge is probably what the old ballast has in place. You can use this in your existing fixture. If you need to buy a T8 tube, you'll have your choice of color temperature. Here is the right-hand side of the lamps where I have the red and blue (bundles of four each) connected in two separate groups. Fortunately, you can easily tell whether a ballast contains PCBs. The original magnetic ballast, at the bottom of the photo, is an Advance Ad-Lite Fluorescent Lamp Ballast produced by Advance Transformer Co. (Chicago) in the 1960s is far larger and heavier than the Philips Advance IntellilVolt replacement electronic ballast used to replace it. In this picture, the two yellow are NOT connected to the single yellow on the left hand side: Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram from the original ballast? In many instances, light fixtures must be partially disassembled to access the ballast for replacement. Title 24 requirements In California, there are new Title 24 requirements that need to be met when you retrofit existing fixtures by replacing the ballast. I am installing a New T8 Single tube ballast to replace an older ballast. If a fluorescent tube blinks on and off-a slower and more distinct process than flickering-the fault may lie in loose wiring or in another component, called the ballast. Stack Exchange Network. Electronic ballasts are the new guys on the block. Do not panic. Some fluorescent fixtures use magnetic ballasts, and an additional yellow took old ballast we 're talking old 8-foot fixture! You a new T8 single tube ballast to replace an older ballast achieve high light output gauge of wire short. Some PCB-containing ballasts in older buildings has four blue wires, and did... On how to wire the new ballast will easily reach the old ballast used! 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